Friday, March 8, 2013
Long exposures before turning night into day
How can I take long exposures without turning a night scene into a scene that appears like its daylight?
I have used ISO 100 and the actual aperture possible. I have thought of using a neutral density filter similar to how you would in daylight to capture flowing water google advertising cost etc but i don't know if this would work for night scene.
I have thought of using multiple exposures with multiple images and blending them in Photoshop but that is not always best and if I can compose in camera all the better.
If it matters I am conditions Nikon D5100.
His tree appears to be have too much light on it, In comparison to the total light from the stars, Throughout the exposure time. A darker tree can help and may be found by obtaining a darker location. If good at post operating, Take an individual shot(s) With the camera/lens still in the same location with intentional lighting effects of the tree (Like adobe pen). In page-Calculating, Make these extra shots monochrome negative and use to mask the tree in the per cent to get it where you want. Or as positives with a color bias to help with making an artistic effect (Green tree). Skaperen november 9 '12 at 2:10
If you are shooting with manual mode and at the lowest ISO and smallest aperture you're getting an image that is too bright at your desired shutter speed, Then it is important to use a neutral density filter. You will also avoid not having enough battery half way through the exposure.
The real issue here is your camera is trying to render the scene as if it were day light. That is what the meter is developed to do - render the achievements measuring as mid tones.
That is the reason photos with snow sometimes look under exposed - your camera is trying to render the snow as a mid tone. On your behalf if the meter is measuring the light reflecting off the tree it will try to render the tree's greens as mid tones. Quite like during daylight. Our modern matrix meters do a more satisfactory job of guessing what we are really trying to do but even then that metering mode is still metering for a daylight exposure.
If you want to control what the image looks like you need to override the automated metering and tell it you want the tree to be darker than normal. The best way to do that is to use spot metering - which the digital camera has. If you meter off tree and dial in say -1 exposure compensation you will get a dark tree that won't look like day time. With my case I use the spot meter and manual exposure (Usually with the bulb setting since the majority of of my shots are over 30s long). For example I metered off the grey in the war memorial and to get a place for exposure. In these examples all are made using HDR so I bracketed around that but the metering technique is the same.
It is quite possibly not obvious, But the moon reflects huge amount of sunlight, Even only a few days on each side of new. Stipulations, Any Article Marketing At Its Finest. Put Your PLR Articles To A Great Use. Create Super Spun Articles Via Super Spun Article Creation Software. This Is The First Software On The Market. Super Spun Article Creation Software long exposure night photography with a moon present in the sky may be like a daylight scene.
You didn't demonstrate how long your exposures are, But shorter is more superior - to lessen the impact of moonlight.
Having said that, Acquiring star trails - as you use one example is - requires an exposure of distinctive length, So make sure you plan your shots based on the moon's phase, And where it is in the sky at your local area when you plan to capture the image